A Blended Approach to Bankroll Management[ return to main articles page ]

By: dgillis
Published on Feb 25th, 2010
PocketFivers Fox and Jennifear have both authored excellent articles on Bankroll Management. Fox provides a good baseline for building a bankroll; Jennifear’s guide is specifically designed for withdrawing profits. Both are volume-based, designed primarily to minimize the risk to your bankroll.

Neither article details strategies for increasing risk, in exchange for greater profitability. There are a few theories you should consider whenever making adjustments to your bankroll standards based on the risk/reward ratio you are willing to accept.


Kelly Betting


Most modern day betting systems are either a version of or in some way related to the Kelly Strategy, published by J. L. Kelly in 1956. Edward Thorp famously utilized Kelly’s work in the blackjack book “Beat the Dealer.” The Kelly Strategy provides the percentage of an optimal bet amount, given a particular bankroll with known odds.

Modified versions of Kelly Strategy are still being used today, from Wall Street portfolio management theory to sophisticated patrons at the local horse track. Understanding the Kelly bet and its factors will help you adjust whatever bankroll system you do choose with the added bonus of providing a guideline for taking shots outside of your bankroll. The original formula is a bit complicated for my taste so I prefer to use the version below.

Bet Size = Bankroll * (ROI * ITM/ (ROI + 1-ITM))

The formula in its simplest form is expectation divided by the likelihood (odds) of a positive result, for a single bet. For that reason, the Kelly Strategy is highly volatile, dangerous to a poker player’s bankroll, and emotional health. Modern-day systems have been adjusted using a utility-based approach. Understanding utility and how it should be factored when adjusting your approach to bankroll management is crucial. Prospect Theory is my favorite explanation of utility and how it affects decision making in games of chance.

Prospect Theory

Psychologists say humans feel pain from losses about twice as strongly as joy from gains. This is a major component of Prospect Theory known as loss aversion. The fundamental principle of Prospect Theory states as your net worth increases, you value gains (as a %) less and fear losses more. In other words, finding $10 means less to a millionaire than it would your average college student. On the other hand, a first year student would fear losing half of his net worth much less than a millionaire would. The relationship is shown in the Indifference Curve model below.



The above intersect represents the point of value at which winning or losing has no effect, also known as Risk Indifference.

A common poker misconception is “the money doesn’t effect me.” As poker players, this is a rarified ideal; it does have some affect on almost everyone. Some people deal with the adrenaline rush and emotional affect of big-money play better than others, but those players truly indifferent to the money are a lot less common than you are led to believe. Identifying players who are most likely to be affected will be massively profitable.

Our theory shows there is an inverse relationship; the larger your bankroll, the less each additional dollar affects you. Take a few moments as you approach your final table to run a search on your opponents. Note who has large cashes, and who is likely playing way out of their bankroll. Some people don’t even realize their game has changed; adrenaline doesn’t exactly facilitate rational self-assessment. It can be as simple as an unconscious range adjustment or maybe a slight change in bet sizing. If you’re thinking, “I’m good,” have someone else watch and confirm that assessment…just to be sure.

Endowment Effect

As a player become uncomfortable from playing out of their bankroll, the Endowment Effect begins to take over. According to behavioral economics we place a much higher value on things we own than on things we do not. When you see a player begin to tighten as a tournament approaches the money, the bubble is altering his perceived value of the chip stack he “owns.”

In the beginning, each stack was worth roughly the tournament buy-in. As cashing becomes a likely result, the tightening player is unintentionally using an ICM-like thought process. In his mind, cashing has a much higher value than the additional equity he could gain from risking his tournament life. Good poker players understand the value of a big stack and the importance of not just cashing, but going really deep. Your bubble-scared opponent does not – the fear stops him from playing back at you. Players taught to “push the bubble” are using the Endowment Effect to its full strength.

Taking Shots

At some point you are going to get the “gotta take a shot” itch, and want to play out of traditional bankroll restrictions. If you’re using a volume-based bankroll system, go ahead and scratch…but be sure you’re not taking too much of a shot. Standard bankroll management calls for a maximum of 2.5% of your bankroll to be at risk for any one buy-in.

To be certain I’m not getting out of control, I never play tournaments with a buy-in higher than a full Kelly bet. I make an adjustment I call my “fuzzy factor” – the amount that I feel warm-and-fuzzy risking and playing for. Determining your fuzzy factor can be done mathematically, but it should be simpler than that.

Find a tournament at your Kelly buy-in and look at the final table payouts. Would the money make you less willing to gamble on a coin flip, or bluff off your stack if it’s the right play? If the answer is no, or you’re not sure, rethink your maximum buy-in accordingly. Don’t be afraid to make constant adjustments or tweaks. Under no circumstance should you adjust your buy in up without a significant change in your bankroll or personal wealth. Doing so would defeat the entire process.

Prospect Theory can help you understand how your management approach should change as your bankroll blossoms. In the beginning, your bankroll is a fairly small amount of your net worth (at least, it should be). Your primary focus is learning the game, moving up after you have a good feel and some success. When you start, there is little difference between doubling your bankroll and losing it. Doubling it may even be worth more to you than losing it would hurt. As a result, you should be comfortable playing with riskier guidelines. Once you’ve made it, rethink bankroll management.

Adjusting your buy-in requirements, and ultimately your risk level, is dependent on your game, net worth, and disposition. As a result, some pros recommend 200, or even 300 buy-ins, ensuring they stay in action – their livelihoods depend on it. Find a balance between moving up and maintaining your roll, and adjust it often as you climb.

The Blended Bankroll

In modern portfolio theory, investment managers try to combine high volatility with lower risk investments to maximize returns and minimize risk. Portfolio Theory offers a good medium to express one of the weaknesses of current bankroll practices. Your 30% ROI would be the envy of Warren Buffet, however, your Return on Asset (ROA) is abysmal.

Let’s say you use a 100 buy-in system. Getting a 30% return on 1% of or your bankroll, in reality, you’re only getting a .3% return on your bankroll. At 150 buy-ins, your ROA goes down to .2%, and we miss out on even greater value.

As an investor, you want to safely get the most out of your bankroll. If I have to be satisfied with .3%, I want to sure that I comfortably maintain it. You could use a volume-based system and invest your cash outs elsewhere. But if you want to keep moving up in poker, use a blended system. In this sort of system, you’re playing similar games at different buy-ins. You safely maximize your ROA while keeping your 100 buy-in average (or whatever your comfort level is).

Let’s start with a small deposit, say $50 on Full Tilt. The best micro game, for its structure and rake, is the $1.10 45-man SNG. I am perfectly happy playing this game with 50 buy-ins. So my floor would be $1.10 * 50= $55. Then I decide to mix in the $3.30 90-mans because they have a decent structure. I want at least 75 buy-ins (75 * $3.30 = $248) to play the 90-mans comfortably. Combine the two: (1/6 * $248) + (5/6 * $55) = $86. Below $55, I play only $1.10s. From $55-$86, I play one $3.30 and five $1.10s. Continue on in the same way as shown in the chart; remember the ratio of games is critical.



Generally speaking, larger field MTT’s mean higher ROIs, but since the 90-mans are turbo structures, let us assume a 20% average ROI for both. If you were to play $1.10s @ 20% ROI you earn about $.22 per game. It would take roughly 875 games to get to $248, the minimum bankroll for $3.30s. With the blended system it would take roughly 381 games less making the blended system about 40% faster. Mixing games isn’t always easy, and perhaps it lowers your average ROI. But even if you increased the $1.10 ROI to 30% it would take 643 games to reach the next level with a 100 buy in system, 110 games more than using a blended system. The chart below shows your theoretical return according to the blended system, using the limits set out in the previous chart.



I would love to give you a simple formula, but a bankroll management system has to be more than that. Your system must be personalized. When you’re building, take calculated risks, always be aware of the consequences, and make certain you are able to handle the swings. Learn what you can about yourself and your game before determining what you’ll play.

I asked Jennifear if she would be kind enough to give me her thoughts on my work before I put it out into the world. Her response reinforces the need for discipline so well; I felt, with her permission, I should include it below.

“While I'm all for a blended system, I have a few issues with it that should be taken into consideration.

In practice people tend to stick with the higher end games or not give the lower games as much attention or care, causing their results to suffer. If you are going to use a blended system, then don't just get up for the high-end games and neglect the lower-end games.

Using a blended system increases variance, and allows players to run hot over 500 games and end up playing levels that they are simply not ready for at times. With a standard system, it would require a statistical outlier to run up into games that you are not ready for too quickly. If you are going to use a blended system, every time you move up, you should be able to clearly and succinctly list the weaknesses your typical opponents have, and reasons why you are able to beat the new level. If you cannot do this, don't move up. There's no reason to get involved in games where your ROI is going to be negative just because you are "properly rolled" because you ran hot.

Using an average buyin system, for most people, is nothing more than an excuse to play tournaments that they are not properly rolled for. When using a blended system, be certain that you are doing it for the right reasons, namely to increase your bankroll at the appropriate rate, not to play as high as possible. Playing at the highest level you show a profit at doesn't always yield the best hourly rate. Example: 1% ROI in $22 SNGs will make you less money than 5% ROI in $11 SNGs.

While I throw these caveats of caution in here, the system, when applied properly and with the right intentions, will indeed yield better results for most people. Please take care and caution when using this system and you should flourish!”

Comments

  1. <p>This is exactly why I come to this site... good read man!</p>
  2. <p>Awesome article</p>
  3. <p>::Standing ovation::</p>
  4. <p>DGillis ... keep posting great stuff. Thanks!</p>
  5. <p>Are you psychic or something? How did you know I was playing outside my roll, and needed a reminder about BR management? </p>
    <p>TYVM, this article gave me a lot to think about!</p>
  6. <p>The psychological side of bankroll management is too often ignored. Well done and well written.</p>
  7. <p>Excellent piece mate. Quaility, write more. </p>
  8. <p>Solid.</p>
  9. <p>excellent post. i think, like any other BR strategy, that this will work for some and not others. i have always been brick-and-mortar when it comes to BR, but im willing to give this a shot. some players, on the other hand, cannot simply break from their BR code. but hey, that's ok. more money for us :D</p>
  10. <p>Gave me a lot to think about.  Excellent article.</p>
  11. <p>solid indeed</p>
  12. <p>thanks all, greatly appreciated!</p>
     
    Thread Starter
  13. <p>Do you think this bankroll strategy could extend to cash games? I'm not so sure it's something that is a concept for cash games, but just curious on your thoughts.</p>
    <p>General opinions:</p>
    <p>1. I have done your balanced bankroll for about 100 games(3.25 and 6.50 6max sng), and I don't think I have a problem with the higher level game, as long as I have enough tables open to just be making poker decisions. Granted this is still "fun money" for me since it's less than minimum wage per hour.</p>
    <p>2. near term future: It'd get harder and harder once you start mixing $25 and $13's(for a 6max sng example), and say $50 for first is a psychological barrier so that I think about those over the $13's even if I have a bunch of tables opened up at the same time.(and that $25 games are more than $50 for first might make some difference)</p>
    <p>3. longer term future: I think the goal of this strat was only really for building a roll but maybe it's usable at a higher level if your willing to accept that risk. I think more likely you'd hit a point where the strategy for winning half the games is radically different than the other half. I think at some point you should end up having a "regular roll" and a "shot taking roll"(aka do sats to major tournaments), so you have some money that if it's lost well you tried, back to the regular grind.</p>
  14. <p>Cash: Technically I believe the numbers would still work out, but IMO cash so much more complicated that it might prove hard to really focus enough. There are players who multi cash so I think its possible, but no matter your game being comfortable and +EV are must's. Personally I would need more experience to try it.</p>
    <p>1.thats good it really is so key to be sure your playing your A game @ both buy in levels, whatever that takes for you individually.  </p>
    <p>2. There is a difference when you jump certain levels, sometimes its not big but other times its huge. I think one of the greatest aspects of the system is that its self regulating, if your playing a game that your -EV in you will find it hard to move up, so theoretically you wont be moving up until your ready. </p>
    <p>You could hit a nice upswing that would move you up but that's only going to last so long before your back down to where you need to be. Once you hit that -EV level your numbers arent going to be nearly as nice and you can either choose to switch to a different system to grind or keep at it and work on improving until your +EV. Then you have to look at your earnings per hour and decide if a potential drop in hourly earnings  is worth trying to move up, thats personal and totally up to you. </p>
    <p>3. This is 100% a building system and when you reach a level that your no longer able to move up you should max out your EPH I personally would switch to something like Jennifears volume based system. I always consider taking shots a withdrawal and if you dont need the money when Jennifear says you should "withdraw"  simply set it aside as a shot taking fund.</p>
    <p>I think you could safely use the shot taking method above and only use "withdrawn" money. Since the psychology theories are all based on net worth I would still use the total of your bankroll to get your Kelly bet % and adjust it for comfort from there.</p>
    <p>I hope that helps, if not or I did a poor job of explaining something feel free to ask whatever!</p>
     
    Thread Starter
  15. <p>Great Article, very well explained and articulated.</p>
    <p>Ty very much</p>
  16. <p>Hey dgilis,</p>
    <p>I noticed a typo in the following section:</p>
    <p>"Let’s say you use a 100 buy-in system.  Getting a 30% return on 2% of or your bankroll, in reality, you’re only getting a .3% return on your bankroll.  At 150 buy-ins, your ROA goes down to .2%, and we miss out on even greater value."</p>
    <p>You meant 1% instead of 2% in the second sentence.</p>
    <p>Also, could you please explain where you got the 1/6 and the 5/6 for the tournament split? It seems so arbitrary. </p>
    <p>Thanks</p>
  17. <p>Great article.Bankroll management is huge in order to be successful. Learn how to manage your bankroll and tons of other strategies at deepstacks.com. secret promo code (pcktaces) to get $50 off of registration.</p>
  18. <p>rbhambha,</p>
    <p>Thanks, it appears at first glance that was indeed a typo. I will go back and review the first cuts of the article and likely have it changed shortly. </p>
    <p>As far as the 1/6-5/6 it is merely a representation of how many tables I was playing at the time. If you play more or less feel free to substitute your own totals. </p>
    <p>fwiw 1/6 stands for one buy in out of a six table group. I was playing all six at once and considered each round of six to be a separate group. I would play a group and then adjust my mixture according to the results. I tend to play one group to completion, I found it helps my HU game and I think makes me more money. </p>
    <p>If you have a different interpretation or want to think of it in a different way it should be easy enough to inject into the over all concept to get a more personalized system. Thanks for taking the time to read and offer your thoughts. </p>
     
    Thread Starter
  19. <p>What would be the advice for using this strategy for large field tournements? Does that make a difference?</p>
  20. <p>Rayden, </p>
    <p>The only thing that should change (other than the min buyin's you use in your formula) is the "fuzzy factor." </p>
    <p>There was a discussion a while back as to the true definition of "variance" vs. how it is used in poker. The real statistic you have to measure to understand your risk of going broke is called "skew" and it increases along with the number of possible outcomes, its what most poker players consider "variance." </p>
    <p>The stat would be based on the number of possible finishing positions and  it is a measure of the odds of a results distance from what is expected (I.E. no top three finishes in X mtt's) </p>
    <p>The system is self adjusting so that skew factor is some what accounted for and your chance of going broke would still be relatively low. </p>
    <p>You would however experience much greater swings in mtt's and bumping the fuzzy factor down a bit would help curb those. The emotional effects associated with severe swings should not be underestimated. The system relies on your ability to objectively move up and down, emotions can hinder that quite a bit. </p>
     
    Thread Starter
 

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