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I know there was an article about this recently for tournaments. Im not so sure I agree with it. What is you guys play with these hands. When do you call? do you call single gappers? double gappers? vs one person? two people?
what do you do postflop when you hit a single pair as top pair? your single pair as middle pair? your draw flush/straigh draw?
I know this is more hand advice and not poker discussion, but i feel that this is a part of my game that is weak right since i like to LAG. And I know this is a very general question, so if you would like to post related hand histories to make your point that would be great.
assume opponents are standard, experienced, TAG, 1-2NL players. -
I can speak only from my own experience at full ring $0.10/$0.25 NL on stars and unfortunately at work I don't have access to my HH, but here goes.
I'm definitely hesitant to play these hands in this position early on. If I'm going to play suited connectors OOP I want a reasonable assurance that I'm not going to get raised from someone behind me, or if I do get raised, I want to be able to know that player only raises strong hands so I can have some idea of where I'm at. So I guess my first criteria is that I have a pretty good feel for the table.
Obv with suited connectors, I'm looking to flop the straight or 2-pair, but I play them differently. If I make the nut straight, I'm obviously going to look to get value, but if I flop 2-pair I play em fast so I don't get counterfeited.
If I make top or middle pair I'm playing it real cautious. Again, I want to have a good sense of who I'm up against so that I can have at least some idea if I might be ahead. Certainly if you have middle pair and bet it and get a call, you're dreading an overcard coming on the turn and that's most likely what's coming if your connector is really low, say 4-5 on a 2-4-9 board.
Just some thoughts, maybe they don't make a lot of sense. I'm quite sleep deprived at the moment. -
My games are 2/5, 3/5, 5/5 & 5/10 live & fast small buy-in (for live) tournys. Not sure how much help this is for online-cash as that seems to play quite a bit tighter but here goes.
First up the feel of the game makes a big difference, if the table already has a couple experienced, TAG players - change tables. The money comes from the others & if you need to chop it a few ways you can mostly do better by moving. I know for limit games lots of folks use big bets per hour but I find for my games counting it terms of buyins per session works better. Counting stacks in terms of buy-ins also gives a reasonable feel for who the producers are. 1-3 buy-ins can be found in front of almost any player, the guy who is filling in his 3rd rack in a 200 buy-in game - probably not a producer :)
OK about the hands:
In general if the table is playing real loose & limping multi-way alot I'll limp suited connectors & 1 gaps down to 65s, 75s from any position. I'm willing to fold almost all the marginal spots, sometimes even bottom 2 if I think I'm beat. We aren't calling many raises, only if its been called in 2 or 3 places already. The goal here is to flop a monster on the cheep & grab a full buy-in or 2 not to press some kind of percieved marginal advantage.
UTG - UTG+3 I'll play suited connectors & 1 gaps down to 45s, 46s at least once early in the session and later when/if the players have changed I'll do it again. If I hit 2 PR or a good draw I'll play it fast, 1 PR no kicker and I'll try to manage the pot. If I get heads up with 1 PR no kicker I'll check/fold/show. If I win without a show down I'll go again - the point isn't about the hand it about showing the table you are playing small cards fast.
BB & SB - Early in the session this is the same drill as above & for the same goals (we want a LAG image) but at a discount and with some info about the pot (a big plus). Once I have the table well covered (maybe 5 buy-ins) I like to start playing a WIDE range of cards out of the blinds, if there 4 or more players in for 3 to 4 BBs I'll quite publicly call in in the blind/dark once in a while and in any case I'll call down to 32s, 35s & 47s. These plays aren't about the hand, they are about keeping the game live & maintaining the action.
These games are my bread & butter but I'm not sure how much if any help this is for online. -
6 max is gratfully based on position. opening these hands at say a regular 100BB table from EP isn't that profitable. generally suited connectors are powerful 3 betting hands in position from the button and CO. they are also hands you should be raising with in 6 max games from the co or button. if you aren't comfortable playing them at 100bb, then i would just pitch them from utg and mp/utg +1. you really want position when playing these hands. it's also very player dependent as to whom you 3 bet with them. as stacks get deeper..maybe 200bb+..maybe 150bb depending on your comfort level, then playing these hands from all positions increases their value. if you REALLy want a good explanation on low to mid stakes short handed hold em. google ryan fee's 6 max guide.
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google is your friend http://www.gamblingsystem.biz/books/2p2NL6max.pdf enjoy.
Originally Posted by Rev.K
I found his site, but it keeps saying to sign up to get the guide and there's no form.Originally Posted by KidDelicious
if you REALLy want a good explanation on low to mid stakes short handed hold em. google ryan fee's 6 max guide.
WTF? -
Awesome. Thanks!!
Originally Posted by KidDelicious
google is your friend http://www.gamblingsystem.biz/books/2p2NL6max.pdf enjoy.Originally Posted by Rev.K
I found his site, but it keeps saying to sign up to get the guide and there's no form.Originally Posted by KidDelicious
if you REALLy want a good explanation on low to mid stakes short handed hold em. google ryan fee's 6 max guide.
WTF?









