wait till you start with 3 of a kind in your hand and just keep betting pot

i have no idea how to play =(

ummm... watch Maverick?

def draw 0 when you wanna bluff

watch some videos of that super THUG Gangsta Gotskillz? on Todd's site. He's the 5-draw G, plus its comedic gold.

Combine the patience required to play Omaha with the Aggression that is required to succeed in NLHE, and you should do fine. 5CD is actually a great game for developing a feel for the relative strength of hands...

Assuming 5-man table...I dont have roll for this game, but did used to win consistently at 1/2 and 2/4 cash.

UG - Raise with AA or better
C/O - Raise with JJ or better
Button - Raise with 77 or better
SB - Raise with any ace or better

To Call-Re-raise: Assume all raises until proven otherwise follow those requirements. So have 2 pr or better to call a UG raise. A general rule I go by is if the Button raises, I like to have the requirements for the previus position; in this case the C/O position. For example, I'm in BB with TT234 and button raises. I would fold because I feel I need at least JJ or better to play against them.

Tips
---Rarely chase flushes/str8's because odds are just not there. The only exception is if you feel an opponent has 2pr or set and you are already in with a hand like JJT89. It may be worth tossing 1 and playing the open ender. But ONLY if you are VERY confident they already have set or a strong 2pr.

---Generally keep AK, AQ, KQ rather than 33, 44, etc. Unless you feel they have 2pr and u need set to win. Reason is you are drawing to 6 cards rather than 2 in order to beat a mid pair (if they draw 3)

---Change up your draw #.
1. Draw 1 with a made set.
2. Stand pat on some 2 prs or even sets (risky, but if u have loose image they may think u on stone bluff by standing pat often and will pay off with KK or small 2pr) I try to pat/bluff about once per 10-12 orbits just to get paid on a few that I do make.
3. If your hand is A7443 it is usually good to keep 44A to draw to a high 2 pr. Plus by drawing 2, it may keep an opponents somewhat weak hand to betting into you if they believe you have set since you did draw 2.

There are many tricky plays to make. Of course it depends on the table and how sophisticated your opponents are just like any other game.

Like I said, i cant afford the buy-in, but would be happy to watch someone play some low limit cash games and offer any advice in order to prepare. I'm def not the best and there are many ideas about the game I am unaware of, but I am confident that playing off the system above will get you deep...especially since most arent aware of proper starting requirements.

Good luck to those who choose to play and hopefully a P5'er can take it down!

I found the rules on pokerroom for 5-card draw.

5 Card Draw
In 5 Card Draw, players are dealt five down (concealed) cards each. After the first round of betting, all remaining players are given the option of drawing (changing) one or more of their cards. After a second round of betting, the game goes to a showdown. The player with the best high hand wins.

5 Card Draw is played with two blinds (forced bets), paid by the first two players seated after the dealer.

Is their a limit to how many cards u can draw?

I dont think you can ever take 5 cards. Also usually you need to have an ace to take 4.

Common homegame rule I believe that was so common it began being known as the norm.

It's just def a home game rule. I have played 5-card on pokerroom before, you can trade all of your cards if you want, and you don't have to have an ace.

Lol! this indeed might be fun! too bad i slept only 2 hours last nite and i ll be exhausted by tonite! But hey, this might really be fuuuuuuuuuun! Lol! We ll see how it goes tonite :) If i `m in i wanna be on ur table below! Lol.

First of all, PL Draw is not "retarded" but there is a lot of skill in the game. I play quite a few PL Draw tournaments at 24hpoker (a B2B skin) and a few at PokerRoom and have a healthy ROI. Today's tournament is too big of a chunk out of my bankroll and starts too early for me to play.

For those NLHE guys who want to take advantage of a likely overlay, your crash course will be to go to www.cardplayer.com and go to the magazine's archives and read everything about draw written by Michael Weisenberg. This will give you a good sense of hand selection and the chances of drawing out when you are behind. If you have Super System, give Caro's chapter a read, keeping in mind that the game he describes is jacks-or-better to open with antes rather than blinds and a joker in the deck. The tables in the back of SS will help you out. The game you will be playing has blinds, no joker, and "guts" to open (i.e. you can open the pot with anything you want). You can draw 0 to 5 cards (no homegame rules), but the only time you should ever be drawing 4 or 5 is in the BB.

Keep in mind that in 5CD, if you have the worst hand predraw you are usually a much bigger dog to catch up than in holdem and you will need to call other people's raises less often than in holdem or you will bleed money away. It is often correct to fold your weak hands to even minimum raises, as you are probably not getting odds to call.

If you are opening the pot, raise. It is almost never correct to limp in draw. Slowplaying is almost always bad as well. If you want to play drawing hands for the implied odds, I'd do it with flush draws with an ace and other high cards in my hand, as you can sometimes pair the ace and win. The worst thing to do in draw is to hit a small straight and get stacked off by someone making a flush or full house.

Be really freaking careful with two pair hands, particulary low two pair. Low two pair in draw is about as good as top pair with a shitty kicker in holdem.

Just like any other poker, figure out who you can steal from and who you can't. I often like to "test" the players to my left early (when the blinds are small) to figure out if they defend their blinds or will give them up.

I bet this tourney will have mostly some of the best draw poker specialists and a bunch of NLHE tourney guys who will play ultra-aggressive. I know someone who played the PL Draw satellite to the $500 last night and said it was the most aggressive draw tourney he ever played. Most lower buy-in draw tournaments are full of weak-tight players and calling stations with bad draw poker fundamentals and no tournament savvy-probably not the case in this event, where I suspect players will err on the side of being too reckless rather than too passive.

Good luck to all P5ers who do play. I'll try to rail when I get home and hope to see some of you go deep.

Read Caro's section of Super System if you have time.

TJ

I rarely play draw, and my bankroll is about 10K, so $500 is definitely over it, but if only 50 or 60 people sign up, I feel like I have to buy in. Anyone else feel this way?

A cardplayer writer did a three part series on this very subject recently (within the last 8-10 editions). If you goto cardplayer.com im sure you can find it in their archive.