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First I think his general message is great. After a big score or terrific Sunday no one is suddenly Antonious and far too many have lost an insane amount trying to prove that theory wrong.
He is also spot on that the best thing to do after a big score is to invest it and not blow it on a car or the ever popular hookers and blow as we will all need more money at some point.
My caveat to his story is that the proliferation of cash value insurance as the greatest financial product on the market and the numerous ways its outstanding for most poker players may be a little misguided. The article seems to address the recreational player and not the pro who have a great run in a big tourney and pick up a nice 5 figure score.
1. You already paid taxes on the money your contributing and with a five to six figure score and a day job odds are you just got popped up a tax bracket or 2 and are paying 33% of your winnings to the feds alone plus state tax if any. If you work you probably have a 401k with employee match that statistically speaking most of us are not maxing which is 15k max plus to get the tax deduction and if your a pro an individual 401k or SEP account may let you contribute up to 40k and take a tax deduction on the whole amount. Jamming everything with after tax dollars when you are in one of the highest tax brackets jsut doesnt make sense when most of us are under 30 and would be way better off taking the deduction and not paying the taxes now.
2. Also withdrawls are not tax free and there are some complicated rules and techniques for minimizing taxes on surrending the policies or cashing them in but one thing is for certain if your taking withdrawls before your "old" (59.5 usually or older) in most scenarios your paying taxes at ordinary income rates and not capital gains on any profits.
3. 401k's can be borrwoed from with less risk of income tax implications if teh money is really needed and individual 401ks have even more lenient standards for borrowing if you really need the money as well for young people you can withdraw 401k money and IRA for a down payment on a house with usually little or no penalty.
4. For cash value policies you have to committ to premiums that are quite large for the duration of the policy in realtion to term insurance and if you run out of $$ or lose a job the policy could lapse easily cause your going to pay for food before you keep funding your life insurance policy
5. last the IRS can trace anything they wont go after it cause they allow under there rules to let it grow tax free but if you get audited and your screw up one of the many rules you may have nice unexpected hefty tax bill. And if you get sued and lose they will get paid at some point with hefty interest.
6. The person who sells you the policy will make the commission of a life time so beware advisors trying to sell you these policies as well they may not have your best interest at heart.
CLIFF NOTES
If you get a big score spend some of the money wisely and get a good financial advisor, insurance should be part of the picture but asset allocation and tax planning are alot better then funding one policy with as many ups as downs. Always ask about commissions from each product and ask yourself why is this guy selling me X. Also we are all different and thats where a good advisor comes in to help you pick products and investments that meet your needs and goals and for most cash insurance alone wont do that.
Once again I love the message to invest rather than play bigger and saving is great but as mike Mcd famously said caveat emptor.
SORRY ITS SO LONG just passionate as have seen many get screwed by insurance salesman and repped people who have lost tons of money -
I concur...good points
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Thank you for some clarification. I have been approached with the cash value life insurance policy idea recently and haven't been able to find a lot of concrete answers to some important questions on the subject. This helps clear up several of them, but I still have a few that I'm not certain about. I would love to get in touch with the original poster. If you wouldn't mind PMing me a quick OK, I'll shoot you a couple of my questions.
Not that Xfactor's article was uninformative, but I think this would go nicely along side it. To the front page! -
Thanks for these points as these questions are frequently asked about cash value life insurance.
First I would like to point out that Cash Value insurance does have its Pro's and Con's and I didn't really go into the differences between investing in a SEP, Traditional, Roth, or 401K plan. While there are always good and bad things to any investment vehicle, I BELIEVE that Cash Value Insurance could be the best for some valid reasons.
1. Yes, cash value insurance is paid with after tax dollars at today's current rate. But I have talked and read a lot of taxation and truely believe that taxes will be higher (possibly much higher with Social Security problems, etc) when we are older so all of the money that is in a SEP IRA or 401K could be taxed at a much higher rate.
2. If you want to research about the tax free withdrawals you will find that you can "borrow" money from your cash value that is not taxed. If you withdrawal all of your cash value and lapse the policy then you have to pay taxes, but as long as you "borrow" under the maximum allowed you don't ever pay any taxes.
3. It is not as easy as you think to get money from a 401k. A traditional retirement plan is much harder to get at than cash value insurance. The reason the government is giving you tax treatment in 401k's and IRA's is so you won't touch it until 59 1/2, and they do a great job of keeping it that way.
4. The cash value policy that I was recommending is a "Variable Universal Life" policy from Pacific Life. The Seperate accounts are managed by large mutual fund companies like Fidelity and American Funds. Cash value insurance has really made it easy for people to take care of life insurance and retirement planning all in one. When you add in the tax benefits it makes it even that much more appealing. A VUL policy is extremely flexible as you only have to meet a minimum payment for the entire year. VUL is also permanent insurance so you only have to qualify the 1 time for it.
Term Life insurance is like "renting" insurance. You only have it for a certain period of time and then have to requalify for it every renew period. (which can be much harder to do when your older or develop a medical condition). Also, they cancel your Term policy if you miss one 30 day payment, so losing your job or not paying is way more serious in a term policy.
I don't think Term insurance is a bad idea but with a VUL you can take care of savings as well as insurance. You can give someone a great plan that involves term insurance and another investment vehicle or two, but that complicates things for the average investor, and usually ends up with the person not saving any money for things like college or retirement.
5. The IRS can't just tap into your cash value insurance investment during an audit like regular investments. Cash value insurance is protected heavily by insurance companies and can only be looked at in very special circumstances - which is not a situation many of us would be in.
6. The reason I am working in this industry is becuase I truely believe that everything I do is WIN-WIN-WIN.
1. When I help someone invest for their future, they will be making money in the long run, protecting their families, getting out of debt, and reaching their financial goals.
2. The companies I represent will be making money with the invested funds so they are happy too.
3. Plus when I recieve a commission it is from the companies I represent and NOT the client, so I feel more comfortable than I would charging a fee from them or charging a percentage of THEIR assets.
If you have any other questions feel free to ask.
CardX -
spoken like a true commissioned advisor.
Nothing personal but I've been screwed by an American Express Advisor selling just what you are pitching, a VUL. We never should have been put into a VUL because we couldn't afford to pay the high premium that was required to get the amount of life insurance that we needed, so what did he do? He put us into a policy that we could afford, without enough life insurance. So basically he made sure that he still made his lofty commission, regardless if we had enough insurance or not.
A ROTH IRA is paid with after tax dollars at TODAY's tax rate and then grows tax free. Most truthful advisors that I've talked to suggests first and foremost if you have an employer match 401k take the maximum match, then dump the rest into a Roth, if you max that out then look for more investments. When you get to the point of maxing out a Roth, I would suggest checking out Dave Ramsey's website and talk to one of his Endorsed Local Providers in your area.
edit:
I have to apologize for being kind of harsh, just everytime I think of what that scum at amex did i get pissed off. The overall idea that was being made in the article is great, just be careful with who you trust to do your financial advising. -
Cosign Overmyer. Lots of financial alternatives better than Cash Value Life Insurance (401k, IRA's, ETF's, Mutual Funds). But the point of saving for your future is very valid (old guy who knows).
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Just to clear some things up.
Cash value insurance is not for everyone. The average investor who purchases a VUL would only be paying what they could afford. (100K death benefit, $150 a month, $50 of it towards insurance and $100 to your investment for example)
To clear up some of the confusion, in the article I said that "front loading" cash value insurance was the best IMO when hitting a big score. What this means is putting a very large chunk away for the next 5 years in a row and then NEVER putting money into the policy again. (unless you want to add to the investment portion later on in life, 10+ years)
By front loading it correctly, the policy should start to grow rapidly and the front loaded investment should cover easily the cost of insurance for the rest of your life.
Yes, the investment could fall and you could lose some of the investment but that is part of the risk of any investment you take.
You should see how many 401k and 403b plans Ive seen where the fees have been so high and the mutual fund so bad (since you can't choose your own company in a 401k plan) that they are actually losing on their principal! (over many years)
A 401k plan is only a good investment IF you are getting an employer match, which is a very small percentage of poker players. Plus the only reason a 401k is good is the extra free money so I don't recommend a 401k without the employer match.
Lastly I did mention a Roth IRA as a really good investment as cash value insurance has the same concept as a Roth IRA (grows tax free - tax free withdrawal) but I pointed out that there is a limit each year to a Roth - which is $4k a year.
Some people have $25k - $100k -$250k and more to invest, which can be taken care of by "front loading" cash value insurance.
PS Here is very my own VUL Policy.
Pacific Life VUL - $500,000 Death Benefit - $14,800 front loaded each year for 5 years - Cost of Insurance is around $67 a month while the rest is alllocated in an array of growth mutual funds.
CardX
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